Eyeshadow application

Eyeshadow application

By applying eyeshadow in different colours and textures, you can intensify or soften your regard, create a certain mood, and even improve your eye shape, depending on the look you want to achieve.

To obtain the best results, you not only need to choose the right eyeshadow colour, but also apply it in the most flattering way. In this article you will learn how to put on eyeshadow according to:

  • the situation you are making up for.
  • the texture of your makeup product.
  • the shape of your eyes.

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Situation

Application simple

For a quick makeup fix, the simplest way to put on eyeshadow is to apply only one medium-bright base colour.

  1. Apply a base shade on entire mobile lid.
  2. Add more in the crease and blend upward, about halfway to the eyebrows.
  3. Optionally, add a thin line under the lower lashes.
Application day

For a more polished look, use two colour-coordinated eyeshadows in light and dark shades.

  1. Apply the dark eyeshadow on the outer corner of the eye in a horizontal “V” shape.
  2. Add more dark eyeshadow in the crease.
  3. Use the light eyeshadow to highlight the inner corner of the eye, under the eyebrows and right above the iris.
Application night

For sophisticated evening makeup, you can use up to four colours of eyeshadow.

  1. Apply base colour on the upper eyelid. To avoid a clownish look, don’t bring it close to the nose or all the way up to the eyebrows.
  2. Put contour colour along the lashes and in the crease. Add more colour to the outside corner of your eyes, connecting together the lines along the lashes and in the crease.
  3. Use highlight colour in the area under the brow and in the inside corner of your eye.
  4. Accent colour is applied on the mobile lid right above your iris.

Texture

High-quality powder eyeshadow is heavily pigmented, which means that the colour reveals itself with the first stroke and will not fade. As a rule, matte eyeshadow has a more sheer texture, while shimmer (in the form of mica particles) gives eyeshadow a rich texture that intensifies its colour.

For easy application, and to increase staying powder, prime your eyelids with foundation or some eye cream followed by powder. Apply thin layers of eyeshadow with a dry sponge applicator, and then blend with a brush. In this way you avoid eyeshadow falling off the brush onto your face, spoiling your facial makeup. You also keep your brushes clear of colour and ready for blending.

Use a rounded applicator to apply your base colour, and a pointed applicator for contouring shades. For blending you will need:

  • a thick springy flat brush for applying highlighter and for precise blending.
  • a soft rounded brush for erasing demarcation lines by removing excess makeup.

Choose your brushes according to the size of your eyelids; the larger the area you have to work on, the bigger your brushes will need to be.

Liquid or creamy eyeshadow should have a lightweight texture that is easy to apply and blend. It must dry readily, for longevity and to avoid it gathering in the creases. Waterproof liquid eyeshadow has the best staying power.

Fluid texture is best for single colour application. Because this type of eyeshadow blends so well, don’t use it for more than two colours, as three shades will create a greyish mess on your eyelids. The same undesirable effect may occur if you use fluid creamy eyeshadow together with creamy eyeliner, or an eye pencil that is too soft.

For foolproof application of creamy eyeshadow, apply it with your fingertip. Blend it with a sponge applicator, or with a small synthetic brush.

Eye shape

Small eyes

To make small eyes look bigger, don’t outline the contour of your eye with a dark colour. Apply shimmery base eyeshadow on the entire mobile lid. Highlight with a light iridescent shade under the eyebrow and in the inside corner and contour of the eye to define its outer corner. Instead of dark eyeshadow along the lashes, use eyeliner along and beyond the upper lash line to elongate your eyes. Use eyeliner on the lower lid for a festive look.

Protruding eyes

For protruding eyes, matte eyeshadow is preferable to iridescent as a base and contouring colour. In the crease, blend contouring colour halfway down to the lashes, visibly shrinking the size of the mobile lid. Curling your lashes may be the best remedy to reduce bulginess.

Mature eyes

Mature eyes look best with a light base eyeshadow all over the eyelid, and a soft highlighter under the eyebrow. Lift your eyes by applying colour strictly above your upper eyelid, keeping the sides and lower lid free of base eyeshadow. Use brown or grey mascara instead of black.

Asian eyes

For Asian eyes, don’t attempt to draw a line above your natural crease with a dark colour. Instead, try to create the illusion of eyelids by applying bright shimmery eyeshadow on and above the crease. It should occupy about one third of the space between your lashes and your eyebrows. Be aware that this technique works well only if your eyelids aren’t saggy.

Wide-set eyes

Large wide-set eyes look beautiful as they are; smaller ones need some work. Draw your shading line in the crease, close to the inner corner, but don’t deliberately try to make your eyes appear closer by applying dark eyeshadow near your nose. Apply eyeshadow within the border defined by the eye shape, and don’t whiten your inner corners.